Recipe card: scallion pancake for two

From the bed: one clump of scallions and the last two red gochu.

• 120 g scallions, cut to 6 cm
• 2 gochu peppers, sliced thin
• 100 g flour
• 20 g potato starch
• 160 g ice water
• 1 egg
• 3 g salt
• 30 g neutral oil, split
• Dip: 15 g soy, 10 g rice vinegar, 1 g sugar, a pinch of gochugaru

1. Whisk flour, starch, salt, egg and ice water. Lumps are fine. Two minutes, no more.
2. Heat 15 g oil in a 26 cm pan, medium-high. Lay the scallions flat, scatter the peppers.
3. Pour just enough batter to glue them together. 4 minutes, press with a spatula.
4. Flip, run the other 15 g oil around the edge, 3 minutes until the rim shatters.
5. Cut into 8 on a board, not the plate, so the bottom stays crisp. Dip.

Swap: no potato starch, use cornstarch, same weight. No gochu, half a jalapeño with the seeds out.

Line note: the ice water is the whole trick. Cold batter, hot pan. We ran forty of these a night at the old place and the one cook who used tap water got moved to dish.